Travels with Spaniels: A mountain railway, another birthplace of independence and choppy seas

We looked straight ahead through the window of the drivers' compartment at the tiny trackway which appeared to vanish down the hill in front. Suddenly I remembered once having been on a rollercoaster ride called Runaway Train. Luckily the driver slowed to a crawl and inched down the 17.5% gradient leaning on the brakes. Any faster around some of the tight curves sliding between solid rock faces and over deep ravines and we would certainly have left the tracks and tumbled into the gorge.

A vanishing track

We were on the Diakofto to Kalavryta rack railway, which goes south from the Gulf of Corinth inland across the Vouraikos Gorge, travelling to a height of 720m in 22km. The tiny 2'6" gauge railway was built in 1895, and one of the original steam locomotives is on display at the station. The scenery through which it travels is breathtaking, red cliffs scoured by wind and water rose up around us, and a fast running river bubbled and span as it forced its way through narrow gaps and steep drops below. On the ascent we slowed to a crawl on the steeper sections, feeling the rack in the centre of the track biting as it hauled the train up. The hoarse whistle sounded constantly, warning traffic at level crossings near the top and bottom, and giving notice to hikers who travel up on the train and walk back along the track. It failed to deter one obstruction and we came to a shuddering halt shortly before seeing a handful of goats wandering nonchalantly over the rocks.

Snow is melting somewhere

We had expected the train to be quiet on a Monday in February, but had in any case booked our tickets the day before when checking the train times at the small station in Diakofto. Either the train is always busy, or other people had seen that the weather was forecast to be exceptionally warm and sunny, as we were joined at the station by several large groups creating a holiday atmosphere. It made for a tight squeeze on a train seating two either side of the aisle, with facing seats forcing almost indecent knee contact. We understood why dogs were not allowed, and decided Max and Elsa were much happier to be napping in the van in the car park. The only down side of leaving them behind was having to return on the same train we'd gone up on, giving us no time to explore the ski-town of Kalavryta - yet another place we have visited which claims to be the birthplace of Greek independence. Although the temperature was definitely much colder than at sea level there was snow only on the surrounding peaks.

Waiting for the train

Engine from the early days...

...and now

We'd arrived in Diakofto on Sunday, after meandering west along the almost deserted old national coast road, enjoying views across the gulf. We wanted to check that the train was running to timetable on Monday and that there was somewhere suitable to leave Florence and the spaniels. We had then driven down to the small harbour and along the shore where there is rough parking next to a shingle beach. Historically this is an area where wild camping is allowed, and we were surprised to have it all to ourselves, apart from the odd person fishing, some dog walkers, and someone learning to drive. Having had a good clean at the camperstop in Corinth, and done the laundry in Athens, we were free to spend the afternoon relaxing, enjoying the sun and grooming the spaniels.

So good we stayed here twice

It was such a nice place that we decided to stay another night and make a slightly longer journey tomorrow, when we will return to Patras and say goodbye to the Peloponnese after more than two months here. We've had a wonderful time, but we're ready to move on, and Italy beckons. We are crossing from Igoumenitsa to Brindisi, and we'll spend another week or so driving north, keeping a weather eye on the sea state forecast in an attempt to book the calmest possible crossing. It may be 20º and sunny here in Diakofto, but even Max says it's too rough to swim, and he's a sea dog.