The best, least known ancient site

We’ve been to Olympia, and to Delphi, as well as several lesser known archaeological sites. We are looking forward to several other major places of interest in the Peloponnese: Epidavros, Mycenae, Mystras among others. But Ancient Messini wasn’t really on our radar. However, it was only 30km from Kalamata, we had a couple of days to kill before the shops and post offices open after Epiphany, and Lonely Planet suggested it was worth a visit. Well, we were utterly wowed. It’s an incredible site, on a vast scale, with several different complexes, lots of restoration, and the largest, most complete amphitheatre and stadium anywhere.

We had left Camping Finikes, a little sadly, on Friday, after a wonderful two week break. We needed LPG, and there is little to be had on the Messini peninsula. We’d made the gas last much longer than usual because we were on mains u for the fridge and the hot water, only using gas for cooking. But now it was well into the yellow. We also had a very slight leak, not enough to be a risk, or seriously deplete supplies, but it was cauling a slight whiff from time to time. Advice from our Austrian neighbours, who build motorhomes, confirmed it was most probably caused by a tiny piece of grit in the valve, and the best way to clear this is to refill the Gaslow canister. 

So we said our goodbyes, and took the scenic route around the coast and back to Kalamata. Our first stop was at an LPG conversion workshop which also offered filling, but they refused to touch our system, claiming their gas was not for cooking. We’d been refused once before in Greece, at a Shell garage, but had put this down to their tie up with Coral, the Greek equivalent of Calor. It seems they really don’t get the Gaslow system here, or the fact that our regulator works for both propane, and the heavily butane weighted Greek LPG. Never mind. It was back to the BP garage we’d filled up at before Christmas, where the same young woman filled us up without question. And since then we’ve neither smelled gas nor seen any indication we’re losing any. If you’re worried, don’t be. I’m assured by those in the know that even a lit cigarette thrown next to our tank wouldn’t ignite anything as LPG disperses far too quickly.

Once we’d filled up the gas tank it was time to sort the food cupboards, and there is a handy roundabout in Messini with a Lidl, a Sklabenitis, and an AB supermarket. We got the staples in Lidl, and exotic extras like broccoli in Sklabenitis. Then it was back to the beach at Analipsi where we’d met Barry and Gill before Christmas. Max was happy to go for a swim in a stream coloured black by olives.

The next morning we headed up to Ancient Messini. It was a glorious day, even in the mountains, and soon we were stripping down to t-shirts to scramble among the ruins. At our very first Greek archaeological site we had tried to keep to the marked path, before realising that it is impossible to read some of the interpretation boards unless you enter into the heart of the buildings. You are expected to amble around, and now we step carefully between pillars, up and down steps and under porticoes. 

At Messini we explored ancient baths, temples, the agora, a couple of unusual tombs, the amphitheater and the highlight, the vast stadium at the heart of the gymnasium where young men had spent three years studying and practising sports. The field of play had been curtailed by the Romans, who had turned it into a gladiatorial arena, but the seating was largely original, including the ornate ones reserved for VIPs. As if all this wasn’t enough, a short drive up the hill took us to the remains of the ancient gate to Arcadia, in a 9km wall around the town, remnants of which still exist, looking like a miniature version of the Great Wall of China as it drapes around the hills. 

We parked up for the night under the shade of trees in a lay-by near the wall, looking down into the valley. It would have been a wonderful day, but for a little accident with a glass of wine which has rendered our MacBook lifeless. I hold up my hand. I was tired, reached for a cushion and somehow the glass tipped over on the table and splashed onto the keyboard. All efforts at resuscitation have failed, and we shall have to manage without while we explore options for replacement. If you’re reading this, then we have at least figured out how to publish the blog from an iPad!