A visit from the police, and the land where females are forbidden

The knock on the van door came just as we'd returned from a morning walk along the seafront in Thessalonika. A man and a woman, not quite smart enough to be Jehovah's Witnesses, and with an air of officialdom. He quickly identified them both as police, showing me his id, and then producing two sheets of photocopy paper with tiny photographs of two men they were looking for. Apparently one was a missing person, a young Bosnian man, the other was someone he'd been seen with. They were thought to be in a motorhome, perhaps with German plates, and might turn up a "camp" like this one. Neither of us had seen them, but we took their number, and they wished us a happy holiday. 

We'd enjoyed our two nights not quite being in Thessalonika, but it was time to head south into the Halkidiki peninsula and make like beach bums for a few days. Our first stop was at Zampetas Caravans, a sales and service centre, where they allow motorhomes to park overnight without charge, or in our case, to pop in and use their services to empty the toilet cassette and fill up with water. They have an extensive camping shop too, so we bought some supplies.

Halkidiki and its three fingers

Halkidiki is like a hand with three fingers, each connected to the palm by a fairly narrow isthmus. Our plan was to stop near a canal across the isthmus of the most westerly finger, Kassandra. The weather was turning overcast, and we pulled up in a small car park on the beach at Poteidaia with only one other car in sight. A walk along the sea front revealed dozens of cafés and restaurants, all closed up for the season, but there was a sizeable stretch of beach with good prospects for ball with the spaniels. 

Canal built 2200 years ago

The next day began grey and rainy, and by lunchtime was showing little sign of improvement. We had explored the canal, initially built in 200 BCE, some remains of an old wall and lighthouse, the small harbour and the neat little town. We had planned to move on after lunch, but were assailed by an attack of lethargy, and decided to stay put and do some research instead. The forecast promised better the next day. 

A bit of castle

More bits of wall

It rained thoughout the night, and we were disappointed when the promised change in the weather seemed not to have materialised. However, by the time we'd had a game of ball and packed up it was looking brighter, and soon after that the clouds all rolled way and we were left with one of those fabulous blue Mediterranean days that can appear within minutes of heavy rain. We weren't planning to stay long in Kassandra, but did pop down to Sane, an expensive resort on the western side, where wealthy yachties and Thessalonikans spend €40 - €50 on a main course in one of the many restaurants, and pick up designer clothes and jewellery at extortionate prices. Unfortunately the car park was charging €15 a day, with no hourly rate, so with no guarantee that anything would be open to see, we cut our losses and headed across to finger number two: Sithonia.

Kassandra, from Sithonia

Kalogria Beach in November

This was our real destination in Halkidiki, giving us the opportunity to feel we are on an island, without boarding a ferry. The interior is hilly, crowned with pine forests. The edges are made up of beautiful long beaches and tiny coves, and the sea is that perfect Aegean blue of postcards and guidebooks. Our first stop was at Kalogria beach, where we were able to park easily alongside the sand with no one for company but two small groups fishing, barbecuing and having animated conversations. The water was too perfect to resist, and after lunch I tested the water temperature and went in for a swim. November or not, it was considerably warmer than anywhere in the British Isles. We had a relaxing afternoon and evening, and woke to the same blue skies and 20º temperatures. Returning from my run, I decided that it was too much effort to change into my swimming costume, and so went straight into the water to cool off in shorts and t-shirt. 

The spaniels had a dip too

Under normal circumstances Nick sweeps the van out two or three times a day. He is becoming increasingly exasperated to discover that not only are there two spaniels bringing sand into the van, but his wife is developing an annoying habit of dipping in the sea and walking back to the shower with even more sand. Oh well.

Yep, that blue

As beautiful as our spot on Kalogria was, we wanted to find somewhere we could stay over the weekend without worrying we would be moved on, and there isn't a lot of room for parking there. I also had an ulterior motive for wanting to be on the eastern side of the peninsula. So after a leisurely morning we moved on, stopping along the way for food supplies, to empty the grey water, and to admire the fabulous views as we snaked through the hills. By one o'clock we were parked on the vast beach at Sykia, with its perfect view of the third finger of Halkidiki, and its crowning glory, the magnificent Mount Athos. 

The crowded beach at Sykia

It's just as well we can admire Mount Athos from here, as it's completely forbidden for me to set foot there. Or any other woman. Or even, any other female: goat, sheep, hen, mare. All are banned. An exception is made for cats (of course) birds and insects. Why these arcane rules? Almost all of the Athos peninsula is under the control of a self-governing all male monastic community dating back more than a thousand years. In 1060 there were fears that the traditional spiritual life was being diluted, so Constantine IX banned women, female domestic animals, beardless persons, and eunuchs. And it has been that way ever since. A handful of female adventurers claim to have made it through in disguise, and a Serbian Princess spent several months being carried around to escape the plague, but never set foot on the ground. Other than that, it's men only. And even male visitors have to apply for special permits - easier if you are of the Orthodox faith - and can only arrive by boat. The land border is completely closed. 

There are twenty monasteries on Athos, and the number of monks is now rising slightly, as young, well-educated, orthodox men are attracted by the unusual lifestyle, and the opportunity to work on priceless manuscripts, artworks and artefacts. Added to the undoubted attractions of the living history is the breathtaking beauty of the mountain. Attempts have been made to overturn the ban on women on the basis that it breaches just about every international law on gender equality. So far all efforts have failed, and the nearest women can get is a boat trip from which you can admire the landscape and architecture, but not much else. Even those close down at the end of October. Still, it's a lovely view from the spot where we've chosen to spend the weekend. And yes, this is why I wanted to be on the eastern side of Sithonia tonight.

The sun sets on Mount Athos

Or was it this blue?

Poteidaia did have a rather nice church

Elsa tries to master her cat issues