Travels with Spaniels: Copenhagen Day 2: headshops and street food

After walking through the central parts of Copenhagen yesterday, it was time to explore the canalised chic of the east. Tickets for humans and spaniels were duly purchased - Elsa and Max are considered children over 12 - and we emerged from the Metro at Kongens Nytorv. From here we strolled along the glorious technicolour of Nyhavn, almost missing the small plaque at number 20 which alerts the more observant that the ubiquitous Hans Christian Andersen wrote some of his tales here.

At the end of Nyhavn a graceful series of bridges delivers you to Christianshavn, where the modern gin palaces give way to houseboats and day trippers, and a collection of shipping containers has been turned into a thriving plaza with street food worthy of a city boasting 15 Michelin starred restaurants. We had started early to protect spaniel paws from the hot afternoon which was forecast, so we decided to return nearer lunchtime.

Recycled art in Christiania

First we wanted to visit the fabled Freetown of Christiania, a commune established by squatters in 1971, and still allowed to co-exist with modern Copenhagen, although Danish law is now enforced there and it continues to be controversial. Residents decided to evict dealers of hard drugs, and the prevailing culture supports only the use of soft drugs. Cannabis plants were growing at the side of the path, but there was a heavy police presence and tape across Pusher St. We were careful to observe the "no photos" signs on Pusher St, but enjoyed the colourful graffiti, the carefully constructed houses built from whatever came to hand, and the anarchic t-shirts for sale alongside the head shops in the little market. And since art is for appreciating, I managed a a discreet shot of a handsome wooden figure with a message for visitors. In Christiania, as everywhere else, the spaniels collected smiles, and water was offered several times. More members of their pre-teen fan club asked politely if they could stroke them - or so we must assume as the message was delivered gravely in Danish. When one child was gently advised to keep her biscuit out of the reach of questing noses, she dealt very effectively with the dilemma by shoving it all in her mouth at once.

Christianshavn

Leaving Christiania, we wandered along the quays where warehouses are being gentrified, and brownfield sites are being landscaped to make the most of the views across the water to the city. Eventually our appetites dragged us back to the Inderhavnsbroen for some of the best street food available, courtesy of Palægade Smørrebrød, and Gasoline Grill.

After lunch we walked back to the S-train, passing the famous Geist restaurant, the Kongens Have gardens where the scent of roses wafted through the air... and an Aldi. Always useful. The afternoon was spent relaxing at the water's edge back at our marina parking bay, enjoying the sea breeze and wandering periodically along the jetties to watch the boats in the harbour. Tomorrow we shall cross the Oresund bridge into Sweden, a privilege which will cost us more than £50, but save considerable time and diesel. I won't deny Nick the opportunity to tell you more about its construction later.